We left Puerto Escondido and motored through the windless morning to Agua Verde. We arrived to see 5 boats in the northern anchorage. After a summer of having anchorages to ourselves further north this felt like a full parking lot. We opted to anchor farther away in the swell off the beach to have plenty of space. With the anchor safely set in the sandy bottom we loaded the dry bag with dry clothes and swam with it to shore. We hiked to the top of a hill in search of two bleating kids with a Mama Goat. Hundreds of crickets hopped out of our way along the rocky and thorny path. The top of the hill awarded us with a view of a valley bursting with the varying shades of green. On the way back down we met a man with a shovel and made friends with his Rottweiler.
Back on the boat we dined on tacos brimming with fresh salsa and BBQ steak while taking deep breaths of the fresh earthy smell wafting through the air and the deafening sound of singing crickets.
Next on our route was the sandy beach of Timbache with an impressive backdrop of the Sierra de la Gigante mountain range.
Fisherman Manuel motored out to visit us.
Quiere pescado? – Do you want me to catch you a fish?
Quiere mi launcha? – Manuel had an extra dinghy for sale.
Quiere ir a la playa? – Do you want a ride to the beach?
Ladies and gentleman, we have a sale!
For a handful of pesos, batteries, and a bottle of wasabi Manuel took us to shore and drove us to Casa Grande. Manuel told us that his wife’s grandfather found a 5 carat pearl years ago. He sold it to a Spaniard and the pearl is now in a museum in Spain and worth millions. I’m sure he wishes they sold the pearl for more. Manuel and his wife raised 5 girls in this village of 22 families.
Leaving early again we set sail for San Ysidro. The Norther was supposed to start today. The Northern Sea saw 45 knots. For us the wind slowly rose from 5 knots to 21 knots. The sky was speckled with feeding pelicans, boobies, and seagulls.
Bottlenose dolphins jumped across the horizon. We anchored off the salt pond ruins and tucked behind the sandy spit of land to wait for the wind and waves to abate.
After our morning cup of coffee, we sailed to the turquoise waters of Ensenada Grande on Isla Espiritu Santo. The sailing started out very mildly and ended with huge beam seas. Ensenada Grande offered a refuge from the building seas so Moondance could sit idly while we jumped off the boat and swam along the rocky shore to snorkel.
By 10am we had decided to leave. The wind was blowing 8-12 knots and the seas were calm. This was going to be a beautiful crossing to Mazatlan. Farewell Sea of Cortez. The last 6 months have been fabulous…